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Mountain Cabin

Mt Logan - Yukon Summit Expedition

Kings Trench & East Ridge Routes

DAYS

25

DESCRIPTION

SUMMIT

DATES

May - July

PRICE

FROM

£4750pp

The climb of Mount Logan, Canada’s high­est peak, is sim­i­lar to the Denali summit experience. Its length and profile are remarkably similar, however the complexities and planning for this peak couldnt be different.  Mt Logan's remote marks this epedition out to be more remote, smattered with trepidation due to its location within the Yukon. The guid­ed ascent to Mount Logan epit­o­mises Rogue Expedition’s spir­it of adven­ture and will pro­vide a huge chal­lenge, but one with incred­i­ble reward. 

Every­thing about the trip is big, includ­ing the scale of the region’s geog­ra­phy, which is enor­mous. Not only is Mount Logan’s bulk ​“more than any oth­er moun­tain in the West­ern Hemi­sphere,” but its neigh­bors – Mount Saint Elias, Mount Bona, Mount King and McArthur – boast equal­ly mas­sive relief and equal­ly sto­ried moun­taineer­ing his­to­ries. With this scale comes iso­la­tion, so team mem­bers may well feel they are the only ones around for miles and miles, expe­ri­enc­ing wilder­ness in the purest sense. Although com­pa­ra­ble with oth­er big moun­tain clas­sics, such as Aconcagua, Mount Ever­est, Vin­son, and Nun, Mount Logan is often over­looked, but cer­tain­ly among the great­est expe­di­tions on the planet. Mount Logan is locat­ed in the St. Elias Moun­tain Range of Canada’s Yukon Ter­ri­to­ry and is the sec­ond high­est peak in North Amer­i­ca. The Mount Logan mas­sif is part of the most exten­sive non-polar ice­field in the world. Our route of choice – the King Trench – was the one used for the moun­tain’s first ascent in June, 1925. Unprece­dent­ed in audac­i­ty, scale, and logis­ti­cal chal­lenge, and cul­mi­nat­ing in a des­per­ate float down the Chiti­na Riv­er when all team mem­bers could no longer walk due to frost­bite, many con­sid­er the orig­i­nal expe­di­tion to be ​“among the most ardu­ous moun­tain adven­tures ever under­tak­en.” It is all the more impres­sive as it was the first ever attempt, by any route, on the moun­tain – a true adven­ture of epic pro­por­tions into the unknown. With the help of an air taxi approach from Klu­ane Lake to the Alaskan-Yukon bor­der, today’s teams can cut the expe­di­tion length to a man­age­able three weeks. While the King Trench is far and away the most fre­quent­ly climbed route on Logan, it is unlike Denali, which has a semi-per­ma­nent park ser­vice ranger patrol, hun­dreds of climbers at camp and on route, and nev­er-end­ing plane traf­fic. The climb­ing style of the two is quite sim­i­lar, how­ev­er, with four to five camps being set up in the course of two weeks, a car­ry high, sleep low tac­tic is what we favor. All loads are car­ried by team mem­bers with the use of glac­i­er sleds. The tra­verse of Logan’s sum­mit area presents a con­sid­er­able high-alti­tude effort of almost 4 miles of climb­ing between 17,600 feet / 5364 meters and the true sum­mit at 19,545 feet / 5957 meters. Com­bine this with all its oth­er chal­lenges — sig­nif­i­cant glac­i­er trav­el through ice­falls and huge crevass­es, cold tem­per­a­tures, and extreme weath­er due to its prox­im­i­ty to the Gulf of Alas­ka – we con­sid­er Logan to be one of the most stren­u­ous high-alti­tude climbs we offer at Rogue Expeditions. Guid­ed attempts have been few, so this will be a gold­en oppor­tu­ni­ty, espe­cial­ly for Cana­di­ans, to sum­mit Canada’s high­est peak!

If Mt Everest, Machu Picchu or Kilimanjaro is on your hit-list, download the Rogue Sports Travel Base Camp Trekking guide to inform you of the detail behind the scenes. 

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Itinerary 

Image by Vincent Burkhead

Exped Day 1

The group will meet in Anchorage on the afternoon of the starting date of the expedition. Arrangements will be made for us to spend the night at a local bed and breakfast (name and location to be announced). We will meet at the bed and breakfast as our flight arrivals permit. The evening will be the last opportunity to pick up additional food items or gear for the trip. There are two climbing stores nearby, REI and Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking.

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Expedition Dates

20/05/23 14/05/23

Total £4750pp Deposit £200pp

20/06/24 15/07/24

Total £4750pp Deposit £1000pp

28/06/24 23/07/24

Total £4750pp Deposit £1000pp

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Overview
 

More Information
 

What's Included/What's Not

 

Price Includes

  • Guide ser­vices

  • IMG leadership (the lead guide will be AFMGA certified)

  • food (breakfasts and dinners)

  • group equipment (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, sleds, etc.)

  • lodging at the Ultima Thule Lodge on our way in and out of the mountain

Price Does Not Include

  • Air­fare to Anchorage

  • bush pilot service round trip from Chitina (an estimated $900)
    ground transportation between Anchorage and Chitina (this will be provided for

    you by Ultima Thule Outfitters, cost is $115 round trip)

  • Accommodation and meals while not on the mountain and lunch during the climb

     (some bulk lunch supplies will be supplied.)

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Want to Talk It through?.......Ask Away

If you have any questions or queries about the training school, the administration or the trek itself give us a quick call. Your call will be answered by the UK guiding team and you will have direct access to their experience in building up towards these treks. If the himalayas are not for you then please drop us a line to see if we can facilitate your requests - we go everywhere........

Image by Marek Piwnicki
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